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The word “paradise” is used to describe many places around the world. I happen to believe “paradise” is more likely a state of mind, but when a place creates a feeling of great awe and something swells up inside you and says “yeah!” – it is paradise. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains are just such a place. The mountain range lies between Salida, Colorado and Taos, New Mexico. The words mean “Blood of Christ” and were given to these mountains by the Spaniards in recognition of the deep purple hue these mountains hold early in the morning and in evening. What the place means to bikers is the chance to ride along spectacular Colorado mountains for over 100 miles viewing multiple 14,000 ft. peaks with forest green, cattle and bison ranches. It means riding through twisting river canyons to rise up and break out in open high country at an altitude over 8,000 ft. It means finding the old West riding along the Sante Fe Trail in New Mexico. |
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“Let’s Ride!” pretty much explains what I choose to do in such country but there is a lot more.
The Upper Arkansas River near Salida is great rafting and there are experienced guides to get you down the water twisties safely. There is great trout fishing in the river too. You can camp along the river at private campgrounds or choose one of the BLM campsites. Take State Road 69 into the high country from Texas Creek to Westcliffe, Colorado. The road climbs up into the valley and runs parallel to the Sangre de Cristo range. Another great option is to ascend via Hardscrabble Pass which is State Road 96 from Wetmore to Westcliffe. Breaking out into open country near Westcliffe is kind of mind blowing. It’s hard to believe so much open space exists so high in the mountains. This is the place knowledgeable Colorado bikers ride to… it’s close to the Front Range but decades into the past. The roads are very much “less traveled”. |
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There are good places in Westcliffe to get something to eat or a beer. I won’t choose one for you but they range from an Irish pub to burger joints, Mexican fare and good beef. A few minutes cruisin’ in town will show you what’s what. There are a couple of good coffee houses and rustic artisan shopping if you need to walk a little. The Country Courtyard Inn is a biker friendly establishment. You can stop there and rest up for the next big ride. But make reservations in advance… their hospitality is well known. Every motel in town welcomes bikers so pick your place. |
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A ride from Westcliffe south on State Road 69 points you towards New Mexico. You will pass a bison ranch and the small village, Gardiner with a good watering hole for bikers. The road drops out of the high valley into colorful desert plains as you ride to Walsenburg. Walsenburg is another town with a small Main Street that offers food and drink - you may be ready for both after the first leg of this ride. Turn west onto U.S. 160 and ride through beautiful La Veta Pass to Fort Garland. On the way, you will see a curious local shrine set into rock along the north side of the highway. It has been there for some time and continues to grow with fetishes and symbols of Christ. Check out the fort in Garland and imagine what it must have been like to defend and support this remote territory. Ride south on State Road 159 to Colorado’s charming oldest town – San Luis. Continue on into New Mexico where the pavement becomes State Road 522. |
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The ride from Westcliffe, Co to Questa, NM is about 165 miles along the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Arriving in Questa, you may continue south to Taos or turn east on State Road 38 which is part of the Enchanted Circle and rides to Angel Fire. The road also leads to that part of the Sante Fe trail running through Cimarron Canyon on U.S. Hwy 64. I have written about the Enchanted Circle in “Just Cruisin” at www.motorcycletraveler.com
The “Sangres” are a great ride and worth making it your big trip. I know you will enjoy this breathtaking country. |
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Matthew Allan is a rider living in Colorado and West Virginia. He is the author of a book on the discipline and art of riding,
The Zen Guide to Motorcycle Riding. |
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| http://www.motorcycletraveler.com/JustCruisin/Sangre de Cristo--- Updated 08.05.08 |
