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This is the first of two articles on great rides in New Mexico. New Mexico is known as "The Land of Enchantment" for good reason. New Mexico offers a unique blend of culture and geography that creates an air of mystery and wonder for its visitors.
New Mexico has many great rides. The State features open vistas and uncontested highways with many interesting places to see along the way. The State has a deep cultural heritage beginning with Native Americans, the Spanish dominion and finally the American Old West. Terrain in the State is varied with roads crossing over high mountains
rolling out onto desert high plains. Roads can be tight and twisty or run perfectly straight for miles. There is a deep sense of freedom riding in the State because of the easy
pace and open spaces. The only traffic congestion is around Albuquerque and Sante Fe. Traffic congestion is generally experienced on the I-25 and I-40 corridors in these
metro areas. Riders simply need to plan their rides to avoid rush hour traffic.
This article focuses on a highway loop of 390 miles in southwest New Mexico that includes Trail of the Mountain Spirits and Geronimo Trail. These roads offer great motorcycle riding in the desert high country. As you contemplate a trip there you will see the area includes the towns of Socorro, Truth or Consequences, Silver City and Glenwood. The area known as the Gila National Forest is bordered by I-25 running north- south from Colorado and I-10 running east - west to Arizona. Easy interstate access gets you to the area quickly. The mountain roads surrounding this wilderness will provide you with considerable riding challenge and huge vistas.
The second article in this series will focus on northern New Mexico including Cimarron Canyon and the Enchanted Circle near Taos.
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Southwest New Mexico
When winter creates the overwhelming desire for a ride in warmer temperatures with dry roads consider a trip to southwestern New Mexico. I am recommending it as the perfect place for "off season" riding. The warmer temperatures are welcome in the winter, spring or fall when other locales are too cold and wet. Summer is very hot but low humidity makes it more tolerable. Summer would be a great time to visit if you prefer to ride mostly naked in the sun. (This is an experience not described in this article.)
Looking on the map you will see this great loop of highways surrounding a host of mountains with nothing in the interior but wilderness. The Gila National Forest includes several wilderness areas. The Gila Wilderness is the nation's first designated wilderness. The forest includes the Aldo Leopold (famous conservationist) Wilderness and the Apache Kid Wilderness alongside the Geronimo Trail. The campgrounds in Gila National Forest are open all winter and mostly vacant. The campgrounds are usually found in the canyons between mountains where it is shady and creeks abound.
The loop begins on I-25 just south of Truth or Consequences and heads west on State Road 152 to Silver City. The loop continues on US 180 from Silver City to the intersection with State Rd 12 just south of Reserve, New Mexico. Head northeast on State Rd 12 until the intersection with US 60 at Datil. You complete the loop by rejoining I-25 at Socorro. It would take one day of hard riding to cover the 390 miles in the loop. It takes longer if you make some of the good side trips along the way. All told, I would suggest at least 3 days in the area to see most of it.
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As you examine the area, you will see there are other smaller loops within the larger loop described above. These loops allow you further access into the mountains to some great historical sites and scenery. Perhaps the best known of the "inner loops" is the ride to the Gila Cliff Dwellings just north of Silver City. There is the loop just south of Silver City on US-180 to the City of Rocks State Park. Another excursion is to the Mogollon area just a few miles north of Glenwood on US-180. This is a fantastic old mining town up the mountain on a narrow (but paved) one lane road. I will recount this excursion later in the article.
Doing the Loop
Travel 53 miles on I-25 south from Albuquerque to Socorro. You then have a choice on whether to continue south or head east on US-60. I recommend continuing south on I-25 to begin the loop because it is a shorter route to Silver City and the best features of the tour.
The town of Truth or Consequences is a good place to get fuel and something to eat before heading into the backcountry. The north end of town featured the best food and gas prices when I came through. The town is known for its hot spring spas so there is an option to stay over and enjoy.
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State Road 152 (WOW!) runs west approximately 75 miles through climbing, twisting canyon roads and summits in green juniper peaks leading to Silver City. It is a two lane highway with good pavement. There are many grand vistas but usually on curves so caution is required because there are few guardrails. When you ride in the Rockies you learn there are few guardrails…riding safe is your American free choice and the view remains uncluttered.
State Road 152 is a challenge with many "dips" in the road for storm water runoff. These dips were clear of debris and water when
I rode it but conditions change with the weather. Judging from the general road condition I believe the route is well managed by the Highway Departments but caution is advised on cloudy days when storms can occur and wash into the gully and roads downstream. In addition to the dips, I counted 13 cattle crossings on State Road 152 to Silver City. Most of these crossing are signed and you need to slow down a bit because of possible bumps. The crossings are elevated properly and fitted with flat steel bars to permit better speed. The width of the crossing is small enough so that a cruiser will keep one tire on pavement when crossing. I felt no great concern of slipping but had to watch for the approaches and manage speed. This is not a big problem because a reasonable speed on State Road 152 is 30-50 mph depending on the terrain (and a few 15 mph switchbacks!). |
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| There are also two narrow steel span bridges. It is a very scenic and entertaining ride but I give it a "8" on a scale of 10 because of the slower speeds and the cattle crossings. The first town you encounter is Hillsboro (elevation 5,180 ft.) I didn't take time to stop due to my excitement on the road but wish I did. There is very nice historic district on the main road with several places to visit. It has charm worth exploring before arriving in Silver City. The ride to Silver City takes longer because of the terrain so give yourself time. I did see mule deer on the road at night. |
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Silver City is the largest town located near the Gila Wilderness and the Cave Dwellings. It is also located at the intersection of State Rd 152 and US 180. This town seemed like the best base camp for a few days of serious riding. Silver City is at a comfortable elevation of 5,900 ft. There is an active mine just east of town on State Road 152 with a history of mining in the region. One historic sign pointed out that over 8 billion dollars in copper mining has occurred in the region. Yet, I did not feel the area was spoiled by this activity. The rides I took did not reveal a lot of mining damage to the landscape.
The town has all of the necessary services to support motorcyclists including good lodging, restaurants and repairs. The historic district is undergoing a renaissance of shops and eateries. Many of the shops are painted brightly. Some buildings are oddly juxtaposed such as the City Hall with the Cowboy Bar next door. Perhaps it makes sense if you consider a good beer might be in order having avoided jail.
There is a groovy records shop "Tune Town" across the street that has a fantastic montage of rock star greats painted on the front facade including Jim Morrison, Carlos Santana, Jerry Garcia, Janis Joplin and others. The shop has good prices on some rare old rock LPs. |
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There are several likeable coffee shops in the historic district so I won't single one out. They each have a unique character and display local artistry. Locals are seen hanging out and good company if you choose to stop and chat. There is a park like setting on the east side of the district along the town creek. Apparently, at one time the commercial district ran along the stream but was washed away! During the tourist season, the historic district will probably include many visitors. It was great fun to visit in February when things were "normal" or at least slower and the locals are around. |
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Cliff Dwellings
Before you leave Silver City, it is a real treat riding to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. I enjoyed the twisting ride on State Road 15 in the morning and then cruised back on State Road 35, a better road, in the afternoon.
It is 42 miles on State Road 15 to the Cliff Dwellings. State Road 15 is loaded with tight curves and speeds are generally limited to 30-40mph. The road is mostly forested with shade and good pavement. Many of the curves are blind. On a scale of 10, State Road 15 is about a "7". It's a great ride for riders enjoying curves but sport bikes may find the speed slow. There are 45,000-50,000 visitors annually to the Cliff Dwellings. Tourist season would make for difficult, perhaps dangerous travel given tight curves with towed trailers and RVs. Off-season travel is good with light traffic. State Road 15 is not a race course but a good cruise.
Hoodoo patriarchs (rocks resembling humans and other creatures) guard the southern approach to the Cliff Dwellings. These apparitions would have been fearful to superstitious early man. One of them tried to ride my bike! Other large rock outcroppings and cliffs are visible along the road but with few pullouts for photos. |
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As you pass through approximately 40 miles of canyon country, the road begins to rise and finally crests over a large vista of juniper trees and rolling hills.(See pic SR 15 Vista2.jpg) At the intersection with State Road 35 the roads combine to continue north. The road finally descends in a slow and sweeping fashion to the Cliff Dwellings. Upon entering the National Monument area, the Cliff Dwellings are the first left on the road while the Visitor Center is straight ahead. I suggest visiting the Center first to get information and water.
The Cliff Dwellings date back to 1300-1400 A.D. with artifacts that predate the period. There is easy road access to the historic location and a short hike to view the caves. It costs $3 to enter the Cave Dwellings but worth it. The short hike is beautiful going up a narrow canyon alongside a stream. Arriving at the cliffs you will be impressed with the site chosen by its inhabitants and by the craft in building adobe walls and living spaces. You have an opportunity to learn more talking with the park guide.
When it's time to leave, return on State Rd. 35 to State Rd 152 and then head back west to Silver City about 22 miles away. State Rd 35 has tight curves in the first 10 miles as you leave the Cliff Dwellings. You will pass Lake Roberts with a small boating community, accommodations and food. A few miles further you cross the Continental Divide at only 6,590 ft. - not very high! The road straightens out and flattens as you travel along the Mimbres River. This area is dotted with ranches and has a nice rural community feel. |
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Round trip to the Cliff Dwellings is approximately 115 miles from Silver City. It is a one day trip if you stop to visit the Cliff Dwellings. Bring along water and food in a backpack if you are riding. There is no gas along the route. You might find some things you need at the junction of State Roads 15 and 35 or at Lake Roberts. |
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US-180
As you leave Silver City on US-180 North, the terrain opens up with broad vistas expanding to include miles of desert vegetation and mountains. The two lane highway is in good condition and has little traffic. You should leave Silver City with a full tank if you are riding because few gas stations exist along the way until Glenwood about 59 miles away.
The highway will begin to climb and the terrain turns hilly as you approach Glenwood. Glenwood has a couple of places to eat and gas so here is your chance to fill up before moving on to Reserve.
Catwalk and Mogollon
At the north end of Glenwood take a right on State Road 174 to visit "The Cat Walk" It was built in 1897 to slurry water to the mill. It has a $3 permit to enter. The road is very scenic and a ride worth taking because of the great poplars and aspens along the way. |
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On the New Mexico State Highway map it appears as though there is a loop continuing on from the Catwalk to Mogollon. I did not find this road. Instead I returned to US-180 and continued a few miles north to State Road 159 and took a right to Mogollon. Mogollon is an old mining town back up the mountain and because people are living there I won't refer to it as a "ghost town" but it is a historical treasure. The road turns to a single lane as you ascend the mountain. If you are not comfortable handling your machine in tight curves on ascent or if drop-offs give you the willies then you may choose another way to get there. I expect in the tourist season this would be a busier road as well. I encountered only a few vehicles on the approximately 10 mile road but it is a riding challenge. My motorcycle weights about 800 lbs and was easily manageable on the single lane paved road but care is advised ascending and descending. The views are magnificent.
Continuing north on US-180 the highway re-enters canyon country. At the intersection of US-180 and State Road 12, turn right heading to Reserve and Aragon. The regional airport is located near this intersection. State Road 12 is well maintained and travels easily through open country and canyons, through farms and old towns (including Old Horse Springs) until it reaches Datil. Turn right onto US-60 if you are completing the loop at Socorro. The ride is wide open on desert plains and runs straight to Magdalena where reasonable gas prices and home cooked food are available. Socorro offers more of the "modern amenities" including fast food, chain hotels and more gas stations.
Safe travels. Life is best just cruisin'.
Matthew Allan is a moto-journalist living in Colorado and West Virginia. He keeps a ride in both places to placate the road demons that haunt him. He is the author of The Zen Guide to Motorcycle Riding and Iron Daze. |
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| http://www.motorcycletraveler.com/just_cruisin --- updated 04-06-07 |
