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California Dreamin . By Matthew Allan

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It’s been written about before and it is still true. A cruise along the Pacific Coast Highway can provide immediate relief from winter and the cold. I got to Malibu in mid-March and felt warmth return to my bones on the beaches while gazing at the coastal hillsides strewn with spring flowers. I was there at a good time with fewer people and some pleasant riding temperatures. I found a good ride where the pavement stops to greet the Pacific Ocean. There is a nice stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway running from Santa Monica to Oxnard. The stretch runs about 27 miles along the coast and you have the opportunity to plan some loops that will take you into the Hollywood hills with vineyards and celebrity homes. One such loop is the well known and scenic Mulholland Highway which runs about 23 miles through the canyon twisties before heading back to Malibu.
But first you got to get there and that means riding some of the busiest interstates in California including I-10 and the Ventura Freeway. I have ridden these roads before but the tension won’t go away. In fact, I bought my Royal Star on Ventura Blvd in Hollywood some years back so the bike was in familiar territory. The traffic can be fast and tight on Ventura Freeway and at a dead stop on I-10. It pays to plan for an off-hour arrival time at night or in the early morning hours. There will be traffic but it will be manageable. You need to know where you are going without having to stop and look at a map. It’s easy… just ride I-10 all the way in until it stops at the pier in Santa Monica – the Pacific Coast Highway is there.
When you get to Santa Monica it is worthwhile taking some time to take in the local atmosphere at the parks and visit the great shops in the area. You can park your bike on the Santa Monica Pier and walk up to Ocean Ave. where the sights begin. You can head north from there checking out places along the way. There’s all kinds of food to be had with outdoor beer joints and coffee cafes along the 3 rd Street Promenade. I have a strong interest in Native American jewelry and found some good original work at the Taos Indian Trading Co. located at 403 Santa Monica Blvd. Todd is the gallery coordinator and collects creative work from 57 tribes around the U.S. He does his own pieces too, and became a silversmith when he was 9 learning from his father in Albuquerque. He repaired an important stone piece for me that I had managed to crack on my bike so I know his work. In addition, the store offers paintings by Native American artists. I found the paintings to be bold and compelling… worth taking a look.

Leaving the Santa Monica Pier you have to ride back onto Ocean Ave. and then take the left exit onto Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). Driving past Sunset and Wilshire Boulevards, you will probably flashback to great songs and movies that found there fame in these places but keep an eye on the PCH riding into Malibu because it runs right along the busy beaches. After passing Pepperdine University, things begin to really open up and soon the many state parks and beach areas begin to pass by. We liked Dume Beach for the good sand and volleyball. Further north there are beaches with fewer restrictions than in Malibu. You can still camp on the beach in certain state parks and run your dog. Seafood joints like Neptune’s Net on the PCH are popular stops for bikers, locals and tourists alike. Celebrity bikers have been seen in these places so keep your eyes peeled.

The turn onto Mulholland Highway has a sign but not a big one. The road immediately begins to climb and twist away from the coast and into the canyons. Some of the turns are 180 degrees bringing you back around for a look at the Pacific. Speeds generally run 35-40 mph so although the distances for this ride are not great some time is required. Even in the 2008 economic climate there were some stunning homes under construction and the vineyards provide some visual relief from the rocky canyon walls so it’s an eyeful. On Mulholland Highway, I didn’t see evidence of the big canyon fires in recent years but I am used to the long term scarring we see in the Rockies where fire occurs. Stop where you will because the vineyards offer wine tasting and the local stores display artisan crafts. As you top the canyon country, the road immediately drops steeply down through more canyons with some very tight curves. A little caution is required because of residential driveways along the way. It’s not the “Tail of the Dragon” or “Hellbender” but you will enjoy a ride in California’s coastal canyons.

You can ride to Malibu Creek State Park a major recreation area at the intersection of Mulholland and San Virgenes Road. There is camping and trails for hiking along lush Malibu Creek an historic site for Hollywood filming. Near the park, San Virgenes Road becomes Malibu Canyon Road heading back to the Pacific Coast Highway. The canyon road is twisty with a few turnouts but traffic will keep you moving. As you find yourself looking at the Pacific once again, turn left towards the Malibu beaches where there is a watering hole with a view for you.

Matthew Allan is a rider living in Colorado and West Virginia. He is the author of a book on the discipline and art of riding, The Zen Guide to Motorcycle Riding.
 
http://www.motorcycletraveler.com/JustCruisin/CaliforiaDreamin--- Updated 05.05.08